Tuesday, August 14, 2012

KAILASH-MANASAROVAR Celestial Beauty, 15th August 19Celest96

Pictures On the Indian Side
A person with good health and sufficient money qualifies for the journey but only his guts and mental make-up wade him through the deep Himalayan valleys and gorges with gushing waters, brilliantly cut by the confident strokes of Nature to elevate a rational human mind more and more into the kingdom of wisdom, where Shiva(Brahman: Nature personified) seems to say, “I am Brahman, that thou art”(Brahma-Sutra)!
But all this is not of the ilk of city rats like me; our kind generally goes there fortified with blind faith and fervor created by the chants of Har har Mahadev, Jai Bhole Nath, etc. and Bhajans(devotional songs). Returning back, we expect more selfish aggrandisement, prosperity and glory, being the select Punyatmas (blessed souls) amongst the redundant, pauper, Papi(wretched) Indian population!
At the outset I congratulate the Ministry of External Affairs for conducting this fantastic dream journey with meticulously planned stop-overs spread over the thrilling but feasible trekking routes, even for a fifty-year beginner like me! Our Liaison Officer, Mr. Somesh Goyal, a young and enthusiastic friendly guy, saw that we all ate well and had good time and harmony throughout. Thanks to him, who also yelled and created hell when necessary, that our batch of thirty five, happily and successfully completed the glorious Yatra.   Ten days of slow and steady journey through different ascending heights finally takes us to the 5100 meters high Lipu Lekh pass and by that time one is completely acclimatized to overcome the high altitude hazards and tread on the highest plateau of the world, Tibet. Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam is the competent organization which courteously and successfully manages the stay, food and transportation of our luggage by ponies throughout the journey in the Indian side. After every trek (with good and friendly government security) we used to be welcomed by,”Om Namah Shivaiah” and a refreshing cool drink of herbal flavors. Then we would rest for the remaining part of the day with a wholesome lunch, tea and dinner with plenty of soup, at appropriate times. We slept well in cozy, pucca, accommodations in most of the places with beds, warm quilts and blankets. Yes, it was around 0 degree C all nights!
Bidding good bye to stately New Delhi, we started at 4a.m. on 5th of Aug 1996! For Almorah, in a comfortable bus playing invigorating Bhajans of the colorful, Bhang addict Lord Shiva! Maintenance of time and schedule was absolutely necessary for the success of the unusual voyage through five different ranges of the Himalayas. Had breakfast at Gajraula guest house at 7a.m. and reached Rampur (of the Rampuri knife notoriety) at 10a.m. to be felicitated by the people with garlands, sweets, khara and tea! Slowly, the importance of the journey began to seep in my mind! I never new that every day henceforth would be a dream day of my life in the folds of lofty Himalayas where jubilant healthy clouds played like children holding Bal Mithai (a famous milk confection of Kumaon) in their hands, in the laps of the saintly looking unperturbed mountains surveying all directions. They seemed to deliver the message, “Let noble thoughts come unto us from all directions (Aano bhadrah rutvo yantu vishwatah….)”, to the humankind!
     Then we arrived at Bhimtal, at an elevation of 1370 meters; a lake larger than lake Nainital  22km away, existing since the days of  Maha Bharat. This huge, perennial lake with an island at its centre has a variety of marine life. This scenic tourist spot with some ancient temples is also a winter recess for fascinating Himalayan birds. Spending some pleasant time here, we moved on to Bhowali, a major fruit market and health resort (also has a T.B. sanatorium where Kamala Nehru, wife of late Jawaharlal Nehru, spent some time) at an elevation of 2050 meters and just had a healthy lunch of Rajma n Rice. Of course, Papad n North Indian style Mixed Vegetables Pickle in mustard oil, were a treat everywhere!
 We reached Almorah, 400km from Delhi and at an elevation of 1680meters. at 6p.m.; a handsome, horse saddle shaped hill surrounded densely by pines and firs, in the southern ridge of Kumaon Hills of the Himalayan range. After having a refreshing bath in our spacious guest house, we walked around in the Bazar in the cold late evening and returned to have a nice dinner of hot puris, steaming hot dal fry, curry and rice followed by the dessert, Gulab Jamun. Then we slip under warm quilts in cozy beds to slip into a heavenly sleep. In Delhi the night before, we barely managed to sleep, in the stuffy hotel rooms, with fans at full speed!
Yes, it was a promising beginning and morning as we started for Dharchula at 6:30 a.m., after a good breakfast, breathing in the beauty of the snow capped Himalayas from Almorah itself! We moved along giant but genial looking Deodars by the roadside, and soon reached the nastier and narrower road that led us to the Chaukori Road, vista of the great Himalayan peaks like Trishul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, through ripening corn fields!. After a sumptuous lunch at 12 noon, we proceeded to Bageshwar, a holy temple town, with temples dating back to 10th century, at the confluence of Gomti and Sharyu. It is also the base for treks to world famous glaciers Pindari and Sundardhunga. Some of us developed vomiting sensation due to the very bad route and I soon realized that we were near the point from where the bus would bid us good bye! After visiting the ancient Byghreshwar (a form of Shiva) temple, on the way we were received by the gushing foamy white waters of the confluence of the rivers Kali and Gori near Jauljibi, a significant trading centre bordering Nepal. From this place onwards we followed the course (up) of the river Kali through lively, resounding valleys and gorges till Kalapani. On the right we had deep valleys and it started raining for some time and then rain with sunshine, and a beautiful rainbow in the valley! I could never imagine a rainbow for which I had to look down! We reached Dharchula(a stove with various peaks around) , a small valley resembling a stove, around 5 p.m., had tea in the guest house and then crossed a small bridge on the river Kali to get into Nepal, a pleasant surprise! Spent some time and money and came back as the bridge would be closed by 7:30 p.m. After a good dinner I tried to sleep, brooding over the fact that, next day, we would start our trek from Tawaghat, 26km. away, which was discussed while we were having soup. For a complete month, we moved at a snail’s pace through the most scenic, verdant, unpolluted, virgin places of the world; I think jet-setters must be already feeling like worms!
Next day, we had our tea at 4:30 a.m., the specified time of our program and we all came out of the guest house to pick up our sticks for the trek. The use of the stick was great once you know the technique; which you usually learned yourself. Using the sticks alternately with both hands exercises your chest and shoulders and perhaps that was the secret of Mahatma Gandhi’s good shape. After breakfast, I strolled around leisurely with my new stick, listening to Pandit Shiv Kumar Sharma’s morning melodies played by my walkman. It was just like a connoisseur giving make-up to a beautiful woman: The beautiful, huge, green mountains belittling the clouds at dawn and the thunderous hum of river Kali at a distance.
 At 6:45 a.m. we reached Tawaghat  bridge (an elevation of 2220 meters.), from where we started our introductory trek of “Thanedar ki Chadhai”, a steep climb of 1000 meters through a distance of only 9km., mischievously welcoming us, laughing in its sleeves. In the south, the said-to-be-difficult well laid Tirumala trek is 2200ft high. Well, as a legend at the temple goes, His abode is just a small peak, blown by Vayu, the God of winds from the thousand peaked mythological Meru Parbat (present Mt. Kailash)!
“I’m the Same, made easy for you”, the Lord seemed to say to the people of Kali Yuga, repenting the deed!
                                                  
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 Chanting the Gayatri mantra the universal Sanskrit prayer by a person for the benefit of all: ‘O Protector of all, Dearer than life, Destroyer of all sorrows, Joy personified, Begetter, worthy of worship, of pure scientific form making Thy abode in us; inspire us for noble actions”, and begin amidst the tranquil, awe inspiring altitudes of The Himalayas for the thrilling trek-journey of Kailash-Mansarovar! Our first trek from Tawaghat to Pangu(2210 meters)began on the 7th of August. Paths paved with cobblestones, wound up and up through mountains like  never ending  lazy pythons in succession. The width of the path varied from a comfortable 8ft to a dangerous 3fton curves; and the traffic of people with ponies, though scarce, from the opposite direction, also followed the same path. Sometimes, the slimmer curves seemed to threaten us, “If you err or misbehave, we will just jerk you into the valley.” Yes, we were already instructed by Mr. Gupte, the under secretary (to China) to respect the mountains with slow and steady climb throughout. When we moved up, we should concentrate on the unsteady path without looking around to devour the natural beauty, which perhaps, several of us were seeing for the first time! The lush green mountains and vibrant gorges and tall waterfalls here were simply breath taking and to devour such beauty, we better stopped and look around, taking our own time, to assure safety.
After climbing for an hour I started sweating profusely, breathing loudly like a blacksmith’s bellows and the person by my side, Vishwanath, a thin, bald headed chap in his early forties, who smoked Charminar(a very strong cigarette) a lot commented, “Something seems to be wrong with you”. But to my chagrin, he climbed very well! Later on we became good friends and once in a way he used to offer me a cigarette for fun with his charming smile. At a point I might have tripped into a valley as I lost balance; but the stick came to my rescue. Deepak, the young, flamboyant loudmouth, started broadcasting it and obviously getting angry with anyone mentioning it to me, I retorted, “Of course I was sure footed, that chap didn’t get me right.” After another ten minutes I tried to relax on a stone with green shrubs around; but a shrub brushed against my elbow, causing alarming inflammation and I panicked not knowing what went wrong? But the porter, understanding, assured me that,” Saab,fikr mat karo, ye to bicchu patta ha (sir, don’t worry this is the scorpion-leaf shrub).” The leaves that gave a scorpion-bite sensation for minutes would actually be good for health!
Moving further up for another thirty minutes, I met fourteen yr old Disha, the youngest member of our batch. “Hey, you shouldn’t keep your mouth open when you are exerting”, I advised her like a teacher that I was. Her father, giving me an apricot (all of us carried lots of dry fruits and candies to suck occasionally, as they were supposed to strengthen our knees and joints for trekking in the heights) good naturedly advised me back,”Mr. Atre, when you are in high, unpolluted altitudes, unlike in the cities; it is advantageous if you inhale plenty of air through the mouth but exhale slowly through the nose, thus gaining maximum oxygen”. He and his comely wife Dipti were already veterans with an earlier trip to their credit! I felt very happy the way he advised me and by the time I returned I was a hit trekker! Remember readers, Mr. Atre boasts a lot! Slowly and unsteadily I reached the post “Thanedar”, exhausted. Behind it was the ineffective family planning slogan, “kam Santaan, Sukhi Insaan”. We spent the evening and night in the high altitude Pangu valley, where huge clouds sometimes engulfed us causing excitement when there was rain also, along with them! Of course we had a warm shelter and a nutritious dinner of hot rotis,  soya nuggets curry,  dal fry and rice in the KMVN guest House.
Starting at 6a.m. next day, we moved on to Sirka (15km, 2450 meters) and I was feeling as fit as a fiddle as we reached Narayan Ashram, where we relaxed for some time with Suji Halwa and tea offered by the courteous ashramites . Then we smoothly reached Sirka around noon, as compared with the first day’s sapping  experience. Had a refreshing bath, lunch and then relaxed for the whole day. Good programming of the tour made us feel at ease and leisurely in every place.
  Next morning we started for Gala (14km, 2400 meters), with a strenuous climb to the Rungling Top (3140 meters) the highest point so far, from where a romantic British personality Mr. Rungling committed suicide, being in love, as we were told! I climbed slowly, breathing hard and jealous as the young porter Surjit sped past me with some luggage, singing a full blooded folk-lore of the mountains and also enjoying a cigarette! Yes, he was a native boy of the mountains with a liter or more blood in him, a physiological advantage! Again it was just exhausting for me due to the height and as I brooded over the knees buckling, more than 610 meters of uneven slope ahead, with unfriendly stones all the way; with a coffee-toffee in the mouth and a bottle of water in a hand! As I started climbing down after some time the feet were getting hurt even through the shoes, even with a much better use of stick. But the lush green environ all-round with huge pines and the local river Simkhola snaking through the dense forests with the usual gush soothed and comforted every one. Hmm…this was also a bear infested area. As we advanced, we came across enormous trunks of Deodars with moss on them, laid here and there, struck by lightning. No one has any say; even the world infesting human being is a scarcely spread lot here at times, at the mercy of the, unpredictable, ruthless vagaries of the beautiful, life giving, sublime Nature!
Next morning at 6:45 a.m. we started for Malpa (11km, 2060 meters); a fantastic, tense fiction like journey along a dreamland gorge with roaring waters of river Kali on one side and huge brown cliffs on the other, sometimes looking down at us as if to say, “Run fools, we don’t want to crush you with boulders and stones”. The security led us through the naturally artistic paths, with water streams in several places falling over us. We reached Malpa in the evening and though instructed to keep our bodies covered with weather proof jackets, we used to uncover ourselves sometimes, to cool down after the last fast lap of our trek in those heights of the Himalayas! As I come out carrying a refreshing herbal sherbet and move around in the nearby areas, the river thundered beside our guest house, making its presence felt as I watched the magical movement of the clouds against the mountains and the fading light.
The situation was ominous from Malpa to Budhi (12km, 2700 meters). It was raining heavily as we dressed; putting on our rain suits and within no time we set out, our shoes were soaked with water and heavy. To begin with, we climbed some distance, and then it was a level or a slope for some kilometers on the heavily mudded path, and then “Lo”, there was a heavy, threatening landslide from the upper levels on the left in front of us! The path was completely blocked and overflowing with chocolate colored thick, mud with stones and boulders still pouring in from the top! At that moment, even the dogs of the territory did not dare to cross it! We retreated 2km back to a small tea-house as the danger lurked over nearby distances. After three hours we returned to the spot as the rain had stopped and our L.O. took the decision of crossing the landslide area from a lower level, one at a time; with the help of agile, native porters. Struggling and focused, with shoes in one hand, , and the other hand in the hand of the porter, feet still sinking to knee levels in the thick mud and the danger of landslide from above, I crossed a distance of about 50 yards to the other side, with a sigh of immense relief as I saw the intact path ahead! Everyone, from 65yr old Mr Patel to Disha crossed the area safely. Around this area in Malpa, the international Kathak maestro Protima Bedi, perished with another 380 people two years later. I would like to point out to the enthusiasts that, after all accidents are accidents and the intelligent and the brave are the lucky either way, as their foot-prints lead the rest to greater heights! Then with another climb upwards we reached scenic Budhi with a variety of wild flowers where we happily and peacefully spent the night after dinner.
On the morning of 12th we started our trek for Gunji (15km, 3200 meters). To begin with, we climbed for three kilometers to reach the highest point so far at Chialekh Pass(3450 meters) from where we slowly moved into the pleasing, welcome  plains with a variety of  wild flowers and shrubs allover; This was another Valley of Flowers in the remote Himalayas! Kumar Gandharva added magic to the environ with Raag Basant Bahar on my walkman. Reached Gunji at 1:30 p.m. and each one of us had a brief medical check-up by a doctor of the Indo-Tibetan Border Security Force (ITBSF). Sugar or B.P. happened to be a good reason for a team mate to be sent back! From this place onwards the medical aid and security was provided by ITBSF, who also provided tea on the way sometimes.
Gunji to Kalapani (10km, 3600 meters) was an easy trek with verdant pine, Himalayan birch (bhojpatra) and juniper forests around and flocks of healthy, energetic sheep coming across, for us to pass through them merrily! Also known as Byans valley locally, it is said to be the place where the Great sage Veda Vyasa, the author of Mahabharata lived. Here, our long time companion Kali Nadi flowed with all its charming nuances and at a distance in the bed of the river, there was a hot sulphur spring by the side, where we all had a luxurious hot water bath in the tub like formation. Refreshed and invigorated, I walk back to our guest house singing, “Vo gori nadiyon ka chalna ucchal kar, ke jaise allhad chale pee se milkar…… (The bouncy flow of the fair rivers resembles the gait of a naughty girl after meeting her beloved…..)”. We have a nice dinner of Chhole puri, Rajma-rice with plenty of vegetable soup topped by Gulab Jamun as dessert; and then sleep well.

Om Parbat
Next day,at 7:30a.m. after a good breakfast we headed for Navidang(8km, 4200meters); reaching there at 11a.m. quite exhausted as we were moving in high altitude zones with oxygen becoming scarcer! I this higher level of Himalayas we find the rare musk deer and also monals( pheasants with brilliant colors) Most of us also had an aching head as we sat chatting in the open to watch the Om Parbat display the Hindu philosophical symbol OM in ice on its top. For some time it was visible but soon disappeared under the heavy, unpredictable clouds. Retiring to the guest house we had an early dinner, and prepared ourselves with woolens, wind-proof jackets, to leave for the Lipu Lekh Pass( 7km, 5334 meters ),early in the morning at 3a.m.; the next day!
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Under the expert guidance of ITBSF staff we slowly climbed in the darkness with torches to begin with and then as the day rose, steadily gained a height of another 3000ft. Though we had an experience of climbing sufficient heights by now, most of us were mildly affected by the high altitude causing headache and nausea. One of the lady members also fell unconscious at the Lipu Lekh pass for some minutes. Well, we were on the Roof of the world, Tibet! Surprise and curiosity prevailed  over my headache as I was welcomed by the sight of a small group of rugged, jolly Tibetans, one of them with a bottle of  liquor in his hands (pouring it to others) looking unearthly in their dirty clothes, eating, drinking and smoking(ganja?) in the most unusual place! Perhaps they were the living Bhoots (reckless, lively devils) with whom Lord Shiva lived in Kailash as the mythology goes! The whole description of Shiva tallies with the mountainous atmosphere, where the hermits lived (population density, less than two per sq. km) and allowed Him his addictions and pranks and unfathomable equations of Reality with full devotion. Peeping on the other side of the pass, I saw the ghastly sight of the descending pass with enormous chunks of ice here and there and gravel and rocks shrubs for miles together. Nobody could tell when a blizzard could zoom over and blow off a person into the abyss!
It was the 15th of August 1996, a memorable Indian Independence Day as we trek down the pass. Though the courteous Chinese government had arranged ponies, I liked to walk all the way to the bus, and being among the last, sat in the hind seat, unaware of the condition of the route and the bus! Within minutes after the bus started I was mesmerized by a huge, smooth hill with shining pink, blue, green, grey splashes, as if on a Chinese work of art on silk! My eyes got glued to it, unmindful of the seat by my side giving way, the person sitting by my side shifting to another seat and the heavy jolts! But soon, as the hill was fading into distance and the young Tibetan women in front began to sing folk songs, I was very much into the bus again, grumbling about the bus shaking me from head to toe in spite of holding the bars by the side! We were taken to the Purang Guest House in the only nearby township of Taklakot at 1p.m. Purang (meaning a ‘horse’s head’) is the Tibetan name of the county, very near to the Indian side. It is known as Taklakot by us and Nepalese; being an ancient trading town where the pilgrims to Mt. Kailash also stayed. We were received in a stately drawing room with spacious, leather-upholstered sofas, beautiful Chinese paintings all around and artistically painted wooden tables from Lhasa in the centre. Colorfully dressed Chinese girls wearing dainty hats served hot, nutritious Tibetan tea with flasks as we relaxed in the cozy sofas. Then the passport and customs formalities were completed by healthy, robust Chinese officers in olive greens and a tall, dashing Chinese girl, with soft, straight, dark brown hair on her shoulders. I envied their looks and confidence; of course, they belonged to the only other Super Power of the world, China due to their sincerity, hard work and brains!

We were accommodated in comfortable rooms with two beds each. All the rooms were provided with two huge thermos flasks which could keep the water hot for two days consistently; a requirement of the people n the cold region. In the evening and next day, we moved in the Nepali bazaar and around the river Karnali (a river from the ‘mouth of a pecock’!) trying to befriend the people verbally; but more with gesticulations We could also sight the dilapidated Tegla Kar( the Lying Tiger fort) on a ridge from Taklakot most of the time . Had good time drinking energizing Tibetan tea ( cha suma made with Chinese tea, barley, soda and yak butter churned in deep, decorative bamboo containers and stored in flasks  to be taken a number of times during the day). Returning to the guest house, we had a wonderful Chinese dinner, but only vegetarian and sans chopsticks!
We were divided into two groups for the Parikramas(circumambulation) of  Mt Kailash and Mansarovar. I was in the group going to Kailash first. We set out for Kailash(Gang Rimpoche’: meaning the precious jewel of snows) at 4 pm by   trucks due to the failure of the bus, dropping the other group at Hore for Mansarovar. Moving through the Gurla Pass(16200 ft)  near Gurla Mandhata, the highest peak of a Himalayan sub range  in Purang ( Lake Mansarovar is roughly between Kailash and Gurla Mandhata) we reach the beautiful Rakshas Tal where, as the mythology goes, ten-headed Ravana performed relentless penance on one of its four islands; offering one head each day in sacrifice  to gain the blessings and favors from Lord Shiva. Rakshas Tal, said to be created by Ravana, happens to be a salt water lake without aquatic life though it is connected to ManasTal(lake Mansarovar) by a short river Ganga Chhu. The mighty river Satluj originates at the eastern tip of Rakshas Tal! From here we sighted Mt Kailash(representing Shiva) in all its glory. Perhaps Shiva could not escape giving Darshan(to appear) to the adamant demon king Ravana; I humorously thought. Then we moved on to Darchen (110 km,16200 ft) at 2 a.m. next day, crossing two flooded streams and a very bad route. This was the starting point of our Parikrama. Getting up late in the morning due to the tedious, tiring journey; we had tea and then soup prepared by our group mates as we had to manage our own food during the Parikrama. Then we leisurely resumed for Dhirebu 22km away by truck, reaching there at 11:30 a.m. and waited for the porters with yaks, at the starting point where severally colored stripes of cloth were tied by the visitors to the slanting ropes with a flagpole (Tarboche in Tibetan) in the centre, to ward off evil spirits. All of us were to do the 50 km Parikrama riding yaks; as the porters arrived, we saw the long haired, domesticated Tibetan oxen possessing great stamina and strength. It proved to be a boon as one could look around sitting on the normally mild animal, minding its own business of regular movement, whosoever was on the back. Our L.O. had a dialogue with the porters through the interpreter Tensing, and then we slowly walked into the Parikrama and within sometime, unbelievably, Mt Kailash( meaning crystal: from Sanskrit) in all its glory was before us!
Mt Kailash
The Affable Yak
 The resplendent, rounded peak standing at 7394 meters was a part of the brown mountain resembling a Shiv Ling in the Hindu religion. The enthralling peak had different effects on our minds as heavenly clouds passed over and around cuddling it. Most of us ran here and there to have different possible views of the peak as the porters settled for a leisurely lunch and decided to start our trek on yaks at 3 pm.; I found their lazy indifference comic! At last I mounted the yak which started moving with its head down, nose almost touching the ground! It was first time I was riding an animal myself, of course under the guidance of the porter, and I cautiously held the wooden support on its back. The yak moved, stopped to graze grass and shrubs, again moved for a distance. That was the way it usually moved and I was comfortable within no time. The mountainous terrain with river Lham Chu led us slowly to Direbu by 7 p.m., where we stayed at night.

Next day at 8 pm we continued for Zonzerbu (17km), the toughest section of the circumambulation. Around us we could see the snow clad peaks of Gurla Mandhata The eight km trek to the Dolma Pass (5800meters), the highest point of the whole journey was arduous, even on yaks.

With Our L.O. Somesh Goyal
 Most of us felt tense, aching and slippery as the yaks too seemed to helplessly climb towards the steep unapproachable top in the atmosphere with paucity of oxygen. Everyone developed a vice like gripping headache, dryness of lips and face. Towards the end, the colorful Tarboche appeared again, registering the religious significance of the place.

Tarboche
 Here, even the yaks seemed to lose their surefootedness and seemed very much irritated with us, on their backs! Near the top, I just slipped down my yak and inched to the top. It was 12 noon and incidentally the place was calm without the anticipated high velocity winds and suddenly a festive mood developed amongst us with the colorful flagpole adding jubilance. As many of us performed Puja at the site further down with frozen Gauri Kund nearby, I moved around as I saw a charming holy Buddhist monk sitting in saffrons without any woolens in the biting cold; it seemed as if he would be there forever unmindful of rain or storm! Unexpectedly spending an hour at the hazardous top, we descended by feet to the other side, and after the steep slope again mounted the yaks, again becoming aware of our headaches! I also enjoyed a fall from the yak as we moved, as it gave a mild shock to my whole body without any hurt! We reached Zongzerbu by evening and had dinner at 9 pm, made by extremely helpful ladies of our group.
Gauri Kund
Next day at 10 am we started back for Darchen (12 km), trekking all along the river Lham Chu, with ice clad mountains behind and by the sides. Reached Darchen at 2 pm after a nice yak-ride and coming to lower altitudes, we ate happily and fell asleep as sleep was long over due! In the evening we went to the small bazaar and I bought a 3litre can to carry the holy water of Mansarovar for friends and relatives in Hyderabad! Surely, our exceptional journey was worth talking about with the appreciated token water.
Descending over a Glacier









Started leisurely in an open truck for Hore on the 21st of August for the dream lake Mansarovar. As we sped ahead, it was a feast of beautiful mountains and streams of water, all the way. All of us were in high spirits, singing and making jokes as we reached Hore at 3 pm.; immediately ponies were arranged for the next day. We moved around the place, came back and went to sleep early.
Next morning at 7 am when it was still very dark and cloudy, we started for Chugu(40 km) with torches in hand. We mounted the ponies at 8 am when the sun rose, presenting us with one of the most beautiful lakes in the world on our right. A huge lake, rather rounded from all sides, has a circumference of 88 km, maximum depth of 90 meters and a surface area of 320 sq. km.!
The Mighty Sweet water Lake
 But the distance being long and monotonous, we moved on listlessly except at the three streams of water which we crossed on ponies with some excitement, but without much difficulty, unlike our friends of the other group for whom the waters in the streams were very high and rapid due to heavy rains.
Porter Thondup
 I had some lively moments with the lively, hunchback porter Thondup before we reached Chugu at 6:30 pm. Next day I was on the same pony with Thondup as we started for Zaidi (37 km). The day was colorful with the energetic porter singing folk tunes most of the way. Golden boulders of rock on hills of gravel to our left and the lake’s golden shores spread with shrubs of various colors to our right made good variety with some birds (not swans) in the water. At different places we get different magnificent views of the blue, clear, lake with backgrounds of different sections of mountain ranges.
Golden Boulders, colorful Vegetation, Lake
Reached the destination Manas Tal at Zaidi, and occupied our rooms in the guest house; in the evening had a dip in the fresh water Dream Lake for millions. The cold water was shockingly benumbing as I entered the waters, but as the whole body with the head dipped in water, it was bearable for some minutes. Having several fun filled dips I came out, feeling fresh, active and hungry; ate well and slept at 10 pm. In the midnight I woke up, opened the door into the front open area to face a stormy wind which had uprooted the tent of a western group of tourists, who were enjoying a nice meal there in the evening! I shut the door back to escape the biting cold punch of the whizzing blow of the wind; yes, the eccentric all time weather of the Himalayas is awesome with all its vagaries!
A View of the Lake
 After having a bath in the lake the next day, I relaxed for some time and strolled to a nearby golden hill at different times. From the hill, the chaotic beauty of the lake was most expressive as the forms of the mountains around and color of the water change from azure to deep blue to emerald green to grayish green with the advancing day as the clouds and the atmosphere play different filters. The lake surrounded by a range of ice capped mountains with Mt. Kailash in the north and Mt Gurla Mandhata in the south is a celestial symphony where gods and goddesses bathed and Brahma swam in the form of a swan as the mythology goes!
Beautful Hues
The night was nippy and calm as I again went to the hill, with my jacket with hood completely zipped up and hands in the pockets of my only tough jeans, to watch the stars in the clearest of the skies from the roof of the world! They looked so near and over me as if I could extend my hand and get one with a magic jump!  It was a dream with an ocean of bright stars and galaxies in the clear void of space which gave the universal message, “I am Brahman that thou art”!


With A Foreign Visitor
                                                                                                                  Raja Ram Atre
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Friday, May 11, 2012

MALAYSIAN NUGGETS


The Cathedral Cave
We make a three days visit to Malaysia and find it worth right from the huge International Airport at Kuala Lumpur, a Global city with a recent history of magical development. From this beautiful airport, 100 Sq. Km.,modern landmark of the world, we directly move towards the 400 million old Batu Caves, a distance of  around 80km. via routes well made and also dusty, but with a consistent accompaniment of  a variety of trees and palms throughout.
As we reach the fantastic, lush vegetation covered limestone caves, rising around 150mtrs above the ground, we are thrilled by the naturally drooping huge stalactite formations, contrasting well with the bulging greenery, giving an impression that the whole structure is ethereal. And look, in front is the huge 140ft statue of Lord Subramanya painted with 300 ltrs of gold! But the caves and the golden statue equal each other in richness of their kind and compliment each other to present a unique magnificence. We slowly look around in front of the caves. It is a marketplace bustling with activity of the tourists and the local people. Small restaurants, momento shops, fruit vendors, flower vendors and vendors selling big alluring coconuts full of water. We buy a thirst quencher each, enter a south Indian eatery and after a long time, enjoy nice hot Idlis and Dosa.
Vel  shaped entrance
We then head towards the steep flight of 272 steps to the cave wondering whether we will be able to make them! Surprisingly we climb them with some difficulty without wasting much time and we reach the Vel(spear) shaped mouth of the cave with intricately formed huge stalactites above us and bats, zooming and settled amidst them, noiselessly. Since 1860 Chinese settlers used the caves to excavate guano as fertilizer for their vegetable gardens.
Stalactites flooding With Light
 This is the Cathedral Cave or the Temple cave promoted as a place of worship of Lord Muruga by an Indian trader, K.Thambusamy Pillai; with a100 meters high natural ceiling with several openings throwing floods of sun light into the cave. There are small shrines in several secluded sections with weird and awe inspiring ancient stalactites and stalagmites and each spot is a place to appreciate and spend some time in the giant, bizarre natural wonder! Finally there is another small flight of stairs and we reach the main shrine above which there is a big opening in the ceiling and from an angle it looks as if stalactites are flooding in along with the light!
 We spend some time in the exhilarating, out of the world surroundings there and slowly return to the mouth of the cave, again trying to absorb as much as possible of the fascinating cave. Then we climb down the 272 stairs leisurely, enjoying views from, behind the back of the huge Golden statue and also the pranks of playful macaque monkeys sometimes naughtily snatching peanuts or bananas from the jolly tourists. I too love the big sized, crunchy, roasted Malaysian peanuts offered to us in the flight. As we don’t have time, and being sufficiently informed about Rama and Hanuman as Indians, we do not go to the other smaller caves.
Over the Canopies
Our next destination in the same afternoon is the Genting Highland Resort, 45 km from the caves. We are dropped at Gohtang Jaya, the lower station of the 3.4 Km. Genting Skyway, a mono cable Gondola lift, the longest and the fastest system in south-east Asia, gliding us over the beautiful, virgin Malaysian rain forests to the Resort, pleasantly atop a 6000ft. mountain peak in the Titwangsa Mountains near Kuala Lampur. It is a sublime experience to view the tropical  forests, with a history of more than 130 million years; way older than the equatorial forests of Amazon and Congo! At present they are under the scan of genetic biologists for new medicines to combat diseases like AIDS and cancer.
At the destination we are picked up by our cab again and straight away taken to the colorful First World Hotel. Its early evening and we have to spend some time to get our room in the world’s fourth largest hotel with 6120 rooms. In our package we have access to the Theme Park with a variety of rides and also casinos, but the rides being on a very small scale compared to the West, we don’t get much interested and the casinos, I consider a waste of time in gaudy, adrenalin smelling places.  We spend much of the time just moving around in the illuminated, festive atmosphere full of tourists and also the nice helpful staff of the hotel. Then we have dinner in one of the abounding food outlets in the First World Plaza, the huge ground section of the same hotel. Tired due to the heavy day of activities plus moving around in the huge hotel, we return to our room and fall asleep in a jiffy.

First World Hotel
Next morning, at the First World CafĂ©, we have a hearty breakfast of omelet with cheese and vegetables, chicken slices, bread toasts, water melon and orange pieces with plenty of good black coffee, an excellent stimulant for one to be on the toes for a long time! And we decide to see the Chinese Chin Swee Caves Temple, fifteen minutes drive from our hotel, arranged free of cost by the temple. Our bus meanders through fog, light rain, some sunshine and the beautiful, rich tropical greenery abounding all around till we reach the Temple, situated in the most breathtaking place of Genting Highlands at a height of 4600ft. In Malaysia, forests and trees cover three fourth of the land, almost an area of the size of United Kingdom! The founder of the Genting Group, late Tan Sri Lim, discovered this 28 acre, green rocky slope with streams which was very similar to the Chin Swee Crag back in his province of China and hence was inspired to construct the Temple. Chin Swee is a Chinese deity with supernatural powers capable of summoning rain and thwarting away evil spirits. This beautiful temple complex which has taken 18years to be completed, due to the hazardous, steep terrain is totally the dedicated work of Tan Sri Lim who was the planner, architect and designer of the project. He and his dedicated team dug 80 to 100 ft. holes, employed manual labor and gloriously completed the work without any accidents or casualties.  

Chin Swee Temple
We enter the spic and span lobby of the temple, ride the lift and come to the colorful fascinating temple complex, mainly dominated by the 9-storey pagoda and the 5-storey shrine of Chin Swee, a Buddhist, perfectly in accordance with the principles of Feng Shui. And well, the Chinese organized schemes of color, dominated by Red and Gold are a treat of a totally different kind to the eyes, just like their food to the palate. At the entrance of the huge floor, are the nine dragons painted in different colors indicating different messages of good luck and fortune. Behind the shrine, are massive statues of Buddha and Kuan Yan, goddess of mercy and compassion.Almost the whole area is surrounded by different kind of depictions of human lives and behavior and reincarnations in the Buddhist style with which we are very familiar;
The Pagoda
 but the colors and life in the variety of the statues every where is just appealing to the eyes! On the other side is the 9-storeys Pagoda, mainly decorated with figurines of Buddha and holding 10000 lamps for devotees to dedicate for the blessings of Buddha. The whole complex, perched amidst the sublime, natural, phenomenal panoramas is a treat!Having the satisfaction of visiting a worthy spot, we happily bid good-bye to the highlands by Gondola, again having heaven of a time over the rain forests and after landing end up in a smelly store with a variety of dried fishes; a variety of dry, spiced flowers, ginger, pineapple; several types of cheap candies and things we don’t have any idea about! We buy small quantities of  roses and ginger candy and leave the store before we get accustomed to the odor around! Then we start for Kuala Lampur, the cynosure of all tourists with Petronas Towers!
We reach our hotel at 4 pm, relax for an hour and refresh ourselves, think not of wasting time in the important city, and move out and start walking in the direction of Petronas Towers; visible from, say any place in Kuala Lampur, being the tallest building in the world! Soon we meet a slim and trim man from Chennai, an engineer settler, walking towards Petronas; we start conversing with each other as he tells us about the interesting property ownerships of Indians in Malaysia. He takes us through shortcuts and interesting surroundings, and later through the modern, high rise buildings, to the Towers, a distance of around 5 km. from our hotel. We enquire about the price of going to the top of the Towers next day (quite expensive); but decide against as we have to stand in the long queue at 5 a.m. in the morning to possibly get the tickets.
The gigantic, high strength concrete structure with its 452 meters tall, slender profile has 560,000 sq. meters of column free office space definitely gives one a feeling of unshakeable well being as we move in the spacious, imposing modern corridors towards the shopping mall, Suria KLCC. Our friend informs us that the structure is based on the auspicious eight point star Islamic motif, a characteristic of Muslim architecture. He also further informs us that it also happens to be the star of Laxmi in Hinduism and also a Buddhist symbol signifying the eight paths. I tell him that the good and well meaning things of all religions are mostly the same!
We bid good-bye to the gentleman who has made us comfortable in the place and enter the elegant, vibrant Suria (from the Sanskrit word Surya, meaning sun) KLCC, the premier Malaysian mall at the peak time. We move around the six-storey mall housing shops of the leading brands of the world without any buying interest and finally enter a crowded Chinese restaurant to have dinner! I leisurely feast over steaming Canton soup and shrimps- fried- rice as Poonam enjoys hot, spicy vegetable noodles accompanied by Coke. 


                             
Slowly we come out of the mall into the base of the towers, and leisurely stroll out of them to find that it is dark outside with plenty of moon light. We turn back and are struck by the beauty of the halide lamps (right from 70 watts to 1800 watts) illuminated Twin Towers and the sky bridge between them creating an atmosphere of celestial glow all around! We spend a lot of time in the lawns at their foot relaxing completely, watching the fountains in the huge pools of water. Very happy to have spent a nice evening in the premises of one of the landmarks of the modern world, we return to our hotel and enjoy sound sleep.
The Parliament complex
Next morning, after having a sumptuous breakfast, we are taken for a tour of the sixth most tourist-visited city in the world! We come to the Merdeka square and spend some time in front of the conspicuous, but not huge, Sultan Abdul Samad building constructed 115 yrs back and named after the then Sultan of Selangor. Here, the Malaysian flag was hoisted and the Union Jack lowered for the first time on 31st Aug.1957; this is the venue of the National day parade, the New Year celebrations and other important events. Then we move on to the 3-storey and 17-storey, pretty Malaysian houses of Parliament with artistic arched entrance and exit and lamp-posts displaying the national flower,  blood red Hibiscus with five petals.
 From there we come to the National Monument, a huge complex with gardens and fountains, the main monument being a group of soldiers in bronze, who died in the freedom struggle against Japanese occupation, in the 2nd World War. This 15 meters tall bronze is the world’s tallest of a group. We spend some time around the monument appreciating the sacrifices though it is the hottest part of the day. 
The National Monument Bronze
From here we go to the Petronas Towers and the City center, move around watching the steely towers in the day time and then having our lunch in a nearby restaurant.
The Fabulous Mosque
The last place we visit is the National Mosque of Malaysia, a modern reinforced concrete structure built in 1965, is said to symbolize the aspirations of free Malaysians. With 13 acres of beautiful gardens around, the huge mosque, with a capacity to accommodate 15000 people is an aesthetically designed edifice with a 73 meters minaret and the 16-point star roof shaped like an open umbrella, harmonizing with the tropical climate. The minaret’s cap resembles a folded umbrella! We reach the mosque by paths and stairs through nicely flowered lush trees around. We are allowed to the vast place of worship after a courteous lady offers us purple robes to don and cover our heads.


 The hall, with some people praying inside is well lit, well ventilated and has heavy chandeliers hanging all-round. The sea green and gold color scheme of the wall-to-wall carpets matches with the colors of the brilliant glass ventilation all around giving a pleasantly stunning appearance. The mighty pillars and walls with artistic inlay work and calligraphic Koranic verses in gold on wide black marble strips on the walls definitely intensify the Glory of the Divine in the Peace emanating mosque. We pray for peace and tranquility in the world.
                                                                                                
A View of the Towers n other Buildings
A Pillar in the Temple
Inside The Temple













      Chin Swee Temple       




















Buddha,Chess Players,10 Caves
                                                                                                                                         Raja Ram Atre
                                                                                                                E-mail:rajaram.atre@gmail.com

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Californian Splendours---17 Miles Drive

This panoramic state derives its name from the mythical island California in a 16th century popular Spanish novel; ruled by Queen Calafia and its beautiful, brave, strong, all women Amazon warriors who used gold tools and weapons! My wife Poonam and I dreamily flew from classy, vast Houston to vibrant San Francisco crossing beautiful territories below us. Even the air-hostess told me that she loved to fly over these regions! We were warmly received and taken to Sunnyvale, 30 miles south by our dear, friend Gopal with whom we stayed ; it was still daylight though the time was nearing 8PM. Refreshing ourselves, we had a sumptuous dinner with barbequed, tender goat meat accompanied by a good scotch. His flamboyant son, a software industry higher up, also had the hobby of nice-cooking, once in a while! Relieved of the harsh 100+ temperatures of Houston, we slept soundly covered with quilt in the 60+ temperatures here. Summer in the Texas region was punishing this year!


Next morning, we enthusiastically started for the scenic, countryside 17 miles drive, hugging the Pacific coastline. It was just cool and clean everywhere with mountains all around covered with lush, verdant pines. The whole, more than 100 miles, route from Sunny Vale was filled with ripe farms of artichokes, asparagus, strawberries, lettuce, you-name-it-they-have-it! Yes, California produces around 80% of U.S. fruits and vegetables! Fresh artichokes being mechanically harvested immaculately and cartoned was also a sight to behold amidst the eye-filling green fields. Perhaps such landscapes of the Silicon Valley gave romantic Steve Jobs an aesthetic vision in the design of personal computers!

We entered the drive at Shepherd’s Knoll on a cold, foggy day in late September. The fog engulfed the view of the Monterey Peninsular arc from the knoll and created a dreary atmosphere with a number of Western seagulls perched on sand in a certain part of the beach. But this was the way nature helped moderation of temperatures in summer and also reasonable supply of water to coastal forests! Forgetting about the promising sunsets in the evening; cold due to the strong breeze from the grey Pacific, we walked back towards our car, crossing strands of kelp (a proteinous, edible seaweed) in several places. And we chanced into pretty, colorful clusters of Ice plants on elevated mounds of sand. These charming, Hottentot figs (the other name, and I loved it as it conveyed something warm instead of ice!) with flowers of various hues are of South African origin; they control soil erosion and are also very fast spreading.




We moved on to Huckleberry Hill, from where again the views of the bay and Del Monte forests were marred due to the fog, but we could spot a deer or two at levels lower to us with binoculars. Soon we reached Poppy Hills, resorts having highly esteemed golf courses of the world. But I found myself least interested in them and their pleasant, cultured appearance as we had traversed beautiful green fields just sometime back! Also the whole 17 miles of the peninsula with beautiful beaches; restless, naughty waters and rugged rocky shores was ahead with the promise of the fog, giving way to brightness! The grand mansions of the affluent community, hidden behind screens of huge pines and the famous, huge Poppy Hills Golf Course with 18 holes, did not carry much meaning to the normal tourists charmed by the glories of nature even under adverse settings!




We moved along the serpentine route through lush green Monterey pines towards Spanish Bay, from where the beautiful beaches, accompanied by imaginatively designed Golf Courses started. In the adjacent town of Pacific Grove lived the Nobel Laureate John Steinbeck for a number of years, who wrote Tortilla Flat around the Monterey Peninsula! Strolling along the shoreline for a while with hands in pockets as the breeze was very cool for us, we drove towards the Restless Sea and Point Joe where huge white waves in the waters galloped towards the coast threateningly; mainly due to the submerged rocks breaking the waves earlier. Then we reached Bird Rock, a hill at a distance from the shores, sheltering a fantastic combination of cormorants, gulls and roosting pelicans during spring and summer and also seals, sea lions and otters with kelp around them. This happened to be the point of maximum interest for us as we watched the verity of fauna on the hill with binoculars.



We also had fun, feeding friendly, big seagulls flying and perching around us as we offered them feed; yeah…, the spine-chilling birds of Alfred Hichcock’s suspense thriller “The Birds” were really a good surprise! So also the playfully darting squirrels resting on thighs for nuts in the palms! All this with the saxophonic bellowing of the sea lions at a comfortable distance on the Hill and to top it all, we also had the rare, magnificent view of a big cormorant with wings spread on a nearby rock and a seal resting near its feet as if courting!

Well, with fun at heart and ducky world famous Golf courses (Spyglass Hill, Cypress Point Club) on the way, we moved on to the “Lone Cypress” with its bright green foliage at the flat top and the lunging haggard trunk, braving the teasing, Pacific! Yes, the over 250 yrs. Old tree, standing alone on a huge, granite really dramatized its valor on the live canvas formed with the ocean around!



It deserved to be the symbol of the prospering Pebble Beach and its enterprising residents. American restaurateur Al Bernardin, one of the residents of this elite area was the inventor of the, 420 klcl. Quarter Pounder, real macho, whole burger of McDonald’s! This weird variety of cypresses, due to very strong coastal winds, directly known as Monterey cypress now happened to be small populations in Monterey and Carmel.Some of them, as old as two thousand years had scary Halloween effects, combined with the persisting fog and memories of the “Ghost Tree” and the likes.




Steadily driving over the unusual cypress trees route we reached Pescadero Point, the northern point of the Bay. Here the famous, ghastly Witch Tree, also used for scenes by suspense film-makers, relentlessly withstood the harsh winds till it perished on Jan.14, 1964 in a storm. This was the only on which the important Hindu harvest festival of Sankranti occurred, and the atmosphere made me think of weaving a suspense thriller myself!


Curving over the Pebble Beach Golf Links, one of the most prestigious and beautiful golf courses in the world with some holes along the coastline, and the Stillwater Cove we reached the cute, town of Carmel towards the evening, still foggy! This wonderful, go-natural place, where wearing high-heels was prohibited as one was likely to trip over pavements distorted by roots of trees, was mostly developed by its worthy residents who happened to be the treasures of the country in the form of artists, poets and writers of the kind of Robinson Jeffers and Mary Austin. We walked along a calmly busy street and entered a store, also selling verities of tasty sauces and dressings. Gopal picked up a small jar of cranberry sauce and a good Californian wine for a turkey dinner. Then we moved on to the Carmel Plaza, another pleasant shopping centre with something for everyone. We bought a large Cappuccino for each one of us from a bistro and enjoyed the lively music and dance going on in the open space outside; where people leisurely accommodated themselves at the conveniently arranged tables. Yeah…some of them with their dogs in this exceptionally dog friendly town, where pets were allowed even in restaurants and hotels, having doggie-menus and provision of water for the pets! This lovesome town happened to be the home-town of the cigar smoking, gun-toting megastar Clint Eastwood who in reality strongly supported the selling and eating of ice cream on the streets as he contested to be the mayor of Carmel. Well…, mind you that he is a life long non-smoker and of course, gem of a healthy gentleman who regularly practices Transcendental Meditation! I tried to conclude that this was a good place for me to attain Nirvana provided some Richie Rich patronized me!

image from http://www.google.com/imgres?q=carmel+by+the+sea&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=811&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=WBo7IOGtFKGXNM:&imgrefurl=http://en.db-city.com/United_States/California/Monterey/Carmel-by-the-Sea&docid=PAHk4lM6_SJ3-M&imgurl=http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/photos/medium/3179813.jpg&w=500&h=375&ei=HK_4TqiDEaS42QWe1cmfAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=189&vpy=506&dur=1662&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=164&ty=106&sig=114353131725115105765&page=2&tbnh=139&tbnw=196&start=21&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:21


Raja Ram Atre