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| At Erumeli |
Sabarimala is in
the Western Ghat
Mountain (Sahyadri
Mountains) range of ‘God’s own
Country’, Kerala. This fascinating, mountainous forest, as the mythology goes,
happens to be a region, once trodden by Sabari, the tribal woman who offered berries
to Lord Rama after tasting each of them for its sweetness. Today it happens to
be a World Heritage Site, possessing one of the world’s most biologically
diverse flora and fauna including Tiger reserves. Let us follow the fifty two
km trail of the celibate Lord Ayyappa to explore the beauty with thrill in the
most pleasant season from November to January when around fifty million devotees
throng there from all over India.
The journey shall definitely be more fulfilling, memorable and colorful as to
most of the other exciting places in the world, with the participation of
better halves and ladies of all age groups in general, as a version of
Ayyappa’s depiction is with two consorts Sridevi and Bhudevi.
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| What a Gait! |
The Peda
Padam(52 km route) from Erumely is the busiest in the first
fortnight of January when the denizens of the forests of Sabarimalai (
elephants, tigers, leopards, deer and gaurs ) make room for the pilgrims wearing Mala, a garland of Rudraksha
or Tulsi beads, and blue or black dress. They have practiced forty
one days Vratam (penance and austerities) during which they refrain from
non-vegetarian food, alcohol, tobacco, sex and use of fowl language. During
this period they walk barefoot, do not shave or have a hair cut, take bath
twice a day, visit a nearby temple everyday and sleep on the hard floor at
night! All this toughens them up for the bare foot trek through the thirteen
hills, carrying the Irumudikettu( package of offerings to Ayyappa and
their own provisions) on their heads. Every one becomes a Swamy (one
with God) with strengthened physical and spiritual capacities.
Having developed
a keen interest, with the help of a friend, I also join a group of Swamies
and reach Erumely from Kochi by bus
in the evening of 10th January; but without the dress code and the
41 day penance! This is the place (Erumakolli: killed the buffalo) where
Lord Ayyappa is said to have killed demoness Mahishi in his pursuit of tiger’s
milk! We all have tea and then a refreshing bath. This small town, with river
Koratty (originally called river Manimala: I like this name!) is abuzz with fun
and fanfare of different groups of Swamies with drums and trumpets to
perform the colorful Pettathullai (dance in the market). With colors
smeared on their faces, carrying wooden bows and arrows, they go to the Nainar
Mosque first dancing to the melodious tune of, “Ayyappan
thinthakathom,swamiye thinthakthom”, to honor Vavar swamy, the companion of
Ayyappa in the fight against Mahishi and
then proceed to the Valiyambalan temple of Ayyappa.
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| Vavar Masjid and Temple |
Next day
enthusiastically I also part with my foot wear and start the trek with the Swamies,
bare foot. But the gravel surface of the path is too harsh for my feet,
as they start aching and burning within some time due to lack of any 41-day
practice like others! But I have to carry on for 7 km till we reach
Poonkavanam, the blooming grove of Ayyappa in Irrumpoonikkara full of dense,
lush tropical forests (rubber, teak, sesame, sandalwood and a variety of
flowers and creepers) extending to the banks Of river Pampa after Erumely; here
the high canopies create an exhilarating path for the pilgrims, preventing even
the sunlight to enter most of the time.
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| Even Sunlight is Prevented |
I have to move on for 3 km more till we
reach Arasamudikotta where, with great relief, I let my hurting feet in the
crystal clear stream of river Parthode and relax, laid on my back. Here,
Ayyappa and his soldiers had taken rest for some time!
Next, trekking
two hills and then a plain for another 4km, we reach the Shiva temple in Kalaketti. Here also I have an opportunity to
lie down and relax my aching and burning feet for a while as the giant trees,
crowded above me, sympathize! Three km further we reach the banks of river
Azutha at 2 pm, I still with very bad
feet. There is a very big functional restaurant with tin sheds; slowly, I walk
to the river, take a refreshing bath in the cool, flowing water. Come back and order
a plate of Idli-Sambar and
Dosa; after eating them gulp two analgesic tablets with lots of water, ask
my friends to carry on with the journey leaving me behind as I am feeling quite
at home with the surroundings, people and the journey by now. I lie down on my
back on the wooden plank, and fall asleep for two hours.
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| River Azutha in the Background |
At 5 pm in the evening I wade through the knee
deep waters and move towards Azuthamedu, a steep climb of 3 km. From here
onwards the earth becomes very soft and slowly my feet also start getting back
to normal, making me extremely joyous that I shall be comfortable rest of the
trek! “Kallum mullum kaalukku methai” (the stones and thorns are like a
carpet to the feet,) I start singing the local folk verse! Further, I leave my,
cumbersome-to-carry, broad brimmed straw-hat on a stone for some one to pick
up, as I don’t find much use of it on the shaded paths ahead. I steadily move
ahead, having tea in a place or two; stalls selling tea, snacks like banana
chips, sweet succulent pineapple slices, and plantains are spread through out the
way. I reach the peak Kallidumkunnu and then Inchippara nearby.
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| Tops of Giant Trees |
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| Very Dense Forests |
Here the
pilgrims take rest and at 9:30 pm. I
steadily climb down the steep, dusty slope from Inchippara, with the hardened
roots of huge trees, all the way. We reach Mukkuzi in the
night where the much revered temple of the Divine Mother is; here I have dinner
of boiled tapioca and salad and find a
place to sleep among friendly people chitchatting about the remaining journey.
Next morning, 12th of Jan. we start for Kariyilaamthodu, eleven km through
thick foothill forests with the Azutha
and Karimala hills on each side. This is a happiness giving, lush area with
gigantic, gentle trees standing there for ages like sages showering blessings
on the passers by, as we some times sight the droppings of wild elephants in
some places! Three km further, we reach the foot of lofty Karimala ( elevation
1440 meters),the most arduous climb of the trek! It has to be climbed in seven
stages and at each stage one thinks that he has reached the peak! At last I
reach the top gasping for breath; there are two ancient wells here, where
Ayyappa and his soldiers are said to have quenched their thirst. Resting here
for some time, I start climbing down steadfastly, the adventurous zigzag slopes
flanked by dense forests on the seemingly unending descent. On the way, I find
some Swamies enjoying a smoke before they enter Sabarimala proper!
Finally, I step
into Valyaanavattam, in the valley of
Karimala where the special devotees
carrying Thiruvaabharanam (ornaments to adorn Ayyappa during Sankranti Pooja)
take rest. Further, I reach Cheriyaanvottam, and then walking along a
tributary, I reach the enormous, soothingly picturesque river bed of Pampa,
where Rajasekhara, the king of Pandalam, found the child Ayyappa! This place is
alive with activity as I move about with a chopped tender coconut with a straw
in it, sucking the sweet, thirst quenching water. The beautiful river emerging
out of the woods and people bathing in it is a sight to behold; the 18th
century poet, Ramanuja Ezuthachan, father of modern Malyalam literature,
described the banks of Pampa as the most enchanting: Pampa sarathadam
lokamanoharam.
The
Cheriyaavattam side of Pampa has
hundreds of temporary camps where pilgrims can stay even up to two or three
days. I stay in a guest house on the banks of Pampa
and after having a refreshing cold water bath late in the evening, move around
in the festive atmosphere. “behold,” the festival of lights in the river Pampa
where hundreds of well-lit lamps placed
on special floats move in the river to the accompaniment of rhythms with
traditional instruments. The whole scene is so brilliant and colorful that I
just get immersed in the fare for a long time! This is the victory celebration
of Ayyappa over the brigand Udayanan.
Early in the
morning next day (14th Jan), I climb the steps to the
huge and artistic temple of Ganesha
at the foot of Neelimala, take His customary blessings and begin the final
steep climb to the destination. At dawn, the mountains and clouds and the mist
together create beautiful, surrealistic views on one side!
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| A surrealistic View |
At the top, I reach
Appaachimedu, which has deep gorges on both sides; and then Sabaripeetham, where
Sabari offered berries to Lord Rama. Another kilometer further is the spot
Saramkuthiyaal, where Ayyappa and his soldiers discarded their weapons after
the liberation of Sabarimala temple. We are very close to the temple and the
whole area vibrates with the melodious slogan, “Swamiye sharanam Ayyappa”,
(unto the feet of Ayyappa) and sounds of fireworks.
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| Near tht Temple |
The time is 10:30 am and I am walking through a high, very
big, long shed (made for the pilgrims to form queues) with a dais on the other
side for announcements and cultural programs. As I proceed, to my left I see
the 18 holy steps, the golden staff and the shrine. The temple on the hillock
is in the midst of a valley surrounded by picturesque, flourishing, green
mountains.
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| The Temple with long Queues |
As I am not in the orthodox, rigorous dress code carrying Irumudikettu
on my head, I go for the Darshan of the Lord from the other side;
but when I reach the Sannidhanam,(sanctum sanctorum) Ayyappa in
His unique Veerasana pose with Yogapatta (a girdle supporting
circling the back and supporting the knees of a seated person) and delivers
the same message, “Aham Brahmasmi, tat twam asi” (I am Brahman, that
thou art) to me also!
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Swamy Ayyappa Temple, Sabarimala, Kerala
|
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| Gathering for Makarjyoti |
The delightful
period of the journey culminates with millions of people sighting the Makar
Jyothi in the evening. It is a pit of camphor lighted in honor of Ayyappa
(as Aaratito Him) from the
heights of Ponnambalmedu, a mountain range fifteen kilometers away!
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| Child Swamy! |
Raja Ram Atre
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